Journal
Ten questions, answered from the research.
The question in the words people use, what is happening in your skin, what the studies show, and our answer. Every claim names its source.
From the founders
“All I wanted was to fix it without doing more damage.”
In my college years, I tried everything: vitamin C serums that stopped working within days, sunscreens ordered from Korea because everything else made my face look like Casper the ghost, hydroquinone and at-home chemical peels that took patches of my skin with them, benzoyl peroxide washes that left my skin tight and dehydrated, turmeric masks that did little more than stain my bathroom sink, and finally, an alarmingly quick prescription for Accutane (which I turned down once I read the side effects).
Most of it made my skin angrier. All I wanted was to fix it without doing more damage. It took me years to understand why I kept failing: I was treating my skin like a problem to be beaten, when all it needed was to be looked after.
The Journal is a curated hub for skin with more melanin: the questions people actually ask, what is happening in the skin, and what the research shows, in plain words with every source named. It is here whether or not the answer turns out to be one of our products.
Quizzes
Diagnostic, not a shopping list.
Barrier Check
Eight questions. Two minutes. The answer changes everything else.
8 questions →What kind of mark is this?
Six questions. PIH, PIE, melasma, or natural variation, and when we can't tell, we say so.
6 questions →Sun Habits Check
Six questions ending in an estimated real-world SPF.
6 questions →
Answered from the research
The ten questions.
- J1
Why do my dark marks take so long to fade, and how long should I expect?
Left alone, dark marks on deeper skin usually don't start fading for about six months. Treated, the first change shows up around week 8 to 12.
Draft - J2
Is my skin barrier damaged?
If your barrier is damaged, nothing else you put on will work. Start there.
Draft - J3
Why does my skin get darker where it's dry or irritated?
On deeper skin, dry skin doesn't just look ashy. It darkens.
Draft - J4
Do I need sunscreen if I don't burn?
Melanin is about an SPF 13 you were born with. Real, and not enough.
Draft - J5
Is SPF 30 enough, and what happens if I don't use enough?
Half the recommended amount of SPF 30 gives you roughly SPF 5.
Draft - J6
Why does ordinary daylight darken my marks, even indoors?
Draft - J7
Will the retinoid (HPR) make my dark spots worse?
In the best study on Black skin, a prescription retinoid (tretinoin) lightened marks by week 4 and darkened nothing.
Draft - J8
Which acids are safe for my skin tone?
Gluconolactone, the acid in "Dew De La Soil," is more than twice the size of glycolic acid. That's why it's slower, and why it's gentler.
Draft - J9
Is there a way to even out my skin without bleaching it?
Two out of three people who use bleaching creams are trying to treat a mark, not change their color.
Draft - J10
Why didn't my dermatologist know what to do with my skin?
Less than 1 in 20 images in standard dermatology textbooks show deeper skin tones.
Draft
Also in the Journal
Longer reads.
Damaged skin barrier and acne: what's actually happening
A damaged skin barrier and acne look alike, get treated alike, and need opposite things. Here is how to tell which one you have.
6 min read
Retinol for dark spots: what to expect on deep skin
Retinol for dark spots works, but on deeper skin, the way you introduce it decides whether you end up better off or further behind.
7 min read
Vitamin C serum for deep skin tones
What vitamin C actually does for deeper skin, which form to look for, and why the best vitamin c serum for black skin is usually not the strongest one.
6 min read
Fade creams for deep skin tones: how to choose
What people mean by a fade cream, what is actually in them, and how to pick one without setting your skin back.
6 min read
Choosing a face wash for deep skin tones
The cleanser is the step people spend least on and get most wrong. Here is what a face wash for black skin actually needs to do.
5 min read
