J8

The question

Which acids are safe for my skin tone?

What's happening in your skin

Exfoliating acids differ mostly by molecule size. Small molecules (glycolic) penetrate fast and work fast, and irritate more. Large molecules (mandelic, lactic, gluconolactone) penetrate slowly and work at the surface. On skin that answers irritation with pigment, slow is safe.

What the research shows

1. Salicylic–mandelic peels beat glycolic for post-acne marks in Indian skin with fewer side effects.

   Garg et al., Dermatol Surg 2009 (L031)Moderate

2. Glycolic and salicylic–mandelic were equally effective for melasma in Indian skin; salicylic–mandelic was better tolerated.

   Sarkar et al., Dermatol Surg 2016 (L032)Moderate

3. A gluconolactone regimen matched glycolic for results with less irritation.

   Edison et al., Cutis 2004 (L033)Low · industry

4. One consumer cleared PIH with glycolic; several worsened. The dispute is real; the pattern favors gentleness.

   Consumer basis: A069; A005, A007

Our answer

Glycolic isn't forbidden; it just costs more in irritation on deeper skin than it's worth for most people. Choose large-molecule acids, one at a time, never stacked.

ActionIf you use two exfoliants, drop one.

Educational only, and not medical advice. Dr. Kita Skincare products are cosmetics. If a skin concern is persistent or painful, see a doctor.